The necessary evil of hand sanding


permanent ankle biter
So, as I sit here, going through 120, 220,
400, and 800 grit, it occurs to me that
we (wood workers/ pipe and tamper makers)
don’t discuss hand sanding that much.

I’m my ten years of working with wood,
and hand sanding a LOT of it, I have
noticed a few things. I’ll share them now,
and hopefully others will chime in with
their experiences.

One thing I have noticed is that the higher
you go in grits, the longer it takes to get
a smoother texture. Almost double the time
as I’ve observed. Now, granted, I can’t stand
a previous grit sanding line, so I may be a
little anal with this, but I consider my finishes
on tampers, and wood in general, very clean.

Obviously, we are talking smooth finishes here.

Another thing I’ve noticed is lighting. A quick
turn of the piece reveals scratches not seen
at one angle, yet clearly visible in another.
Pics to demonstrate:

Hmmm.. minimum sanding lines...

Lots of sanding lines!

Okay, feel free to add to this topic
as you see fit, and hopefully it will
be beneficial to others going forward.


Well-known member
Yes, I will share, of course
There are abrasive buffs. They are used to polish paint on cars.
There is Abralon from the Finnish company Mirka and there is Trizact from 3M. Abralon is definitely available with a grain size of 600 to 4000. Maybe there are even larger grains. Trizact is definitely eaten with grains of 3000 and 6000. Maybe there are larger grains.
Abralon has a softer backing and, in my opinion, it is better suited for wood.
It is better to work at low revs, no more than 200 - 300 rpm. I tried Abralon, it polishes well. But I honestly don't know how long he will live. There was no lengthy check.
With pieces of wood, sandpaper suits me perfectly. She does not lick sharp edges. I was looking for how to polish ebonite. It is also suitable for ebonite, but it is extremely inconvenient to work, so I do not use it.

Regards, Odissey